Feb 12

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There are not many designers in any generation with the ability to do what McQueen did, which is marry epic imagination with mind-blowing technical skill. He was a designer with an eye to what was next.

What will be forever synonymous with the name Alexander McQueen was his inability to compromise on anything. His collections repeatedly showed exquisite tailoring, paired with feminine romance and wearability with the cutting edge of high fashion. It was enviable assemblage that has emblazoned the name of Alexander McQueen into any self-respecting Fashionistas consciousness over the past 15 years.

Since his graduation show from St. Martins in 1995 he soared to the dizzying heights of haute couture world. What was the secret of his success? Well, as alexandermcqueen.com so perfectly described, it is the blend of these things: ‘Fragility and strength, tradition and modernity and fluidity and severity.’

Take, for example, McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2006 runway show, entitled ‘The Widows of Culloden’. McQueen here was taking inspiration from his own heritage, referencing the infamous and bloody battle fought at Culloden in Scotland. Fiercely political and emotionally raw, it set the stage perfectly as the collection that really made McQueen’s name. It was a very British affair and one that had a message; that perhaps the medium of fashion that was once thought of as vapid could have something relevant and poignant to say about a nation’s history and people.

It is perhaps because of McQueen’s strong political statements in his shows that earned him the title of the perennial bad boy of British fashion. Indeed you only need to glance at his most recent collection to see this.

McQueen’s brand of fashion was playful, confrontational and unforgettable; it is one that took you by the scruff of the neck, made sure you looked it in the eye, and once you’d seen it, you would not want to stop looking.


R.I.P Alexander Lee McQueen 1969 – 2010

Nov 30

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It was a double whammy this weekend. Not only were we blessed with two lots of wardrobe changes per finalist, we also found out that Cheryl has not one, but TWO stylists! You know what they say about too many cooks…  Her dress looked like something fashioned by the local primary school kids. Removing the ghastly sleeve and the messy black corsage – which, by the way, made her hips look twice the size – was all it would have taken. Come on Cheryl, your public want couture, not costume!

Although Dannii’s dress was practically slit to the crotch (thank goodness for that desk to shield our innocent eyes) her style was pretty much flawless. Not liking the hair so much this week, though.

Danyl showed promise, looking good in simple jeans and a t-shirt. Did his performance really need to be   accessorised with fire-dancers? Ok, Brian Friedman, we get that his song was ‘Relight my Fire’ – the song title was our first clue. Danyl’s second outfit unfortunately let him down. Does no one own an iron back there in wardrobe?

What on earth did they style Lloyd in this week? Was that a bib/shirt? And why was he allowed to go on stage with said shirt hanging down by his knees? Some weeks, I weep for what was and what could have been and this week I was crying a river. The morning suit with the skinny tie… dear, oh dear.

Both of Olly’s outfits were laughable. Surely, by week eight our finalists should be falling into their own style niches, and the show’s stylists should be working to fine tune this. In the beginning, the force was strong with this one, but Olly’s wardrobe seems to be in reverse. At least this week there was a waistcoat to cover his gaping-shirt malfunction.

Joe. Vanilla Joe. Don’t get me wrong, I think Joe’s a sweetheart, but his clothes are just so blah. It’s like wardrobe forget about him every week and just stick him in whatever is left. I guarantee that most of the cameramen will be better dressed than he is.

Stacey is the one remaining contestant with any oomph left in that bland wardrobe vortex; if it wasn’t for her adding a bit of sparkle and glam, that stage would be a style abyss – especially now Jedward have sadly departed. She looked stunning for both her performances.

In the naughty corner this week…

The X Factor stylists. Top marks for Stacey, but you have other acts you should be concentrating on.

Sunday Best:

Mr. Cowell, for actually wearing something other than black… even if it was grey.

Nov 09

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Stepping onto the stage to the sounds of the Star Wars theme, our judges were immersed in a somber sea of black… all except Dannii, who stood out like a bride at a funeral. Looking every inch the modern day Princess Leia, Danni wore a floor-length (surprise) white Ralph and Russo gown, slit to the thigh and cinched in at the waist. Well done, Ms Minogue.

It was disappointing to see Cheryl in a conservative black shift dress – a nod to the backlash of media insults from the previous week, perhaps.

Movie night started off poorly in the style arena. We all know it wasn’t exactly Oscar night, but some effort would have been nice, especially to open the show.

Dressed in wet-look leggings, matching vest and, of all things, a black cardi, Dagenham dolly Stacey was told to emulate a sexiness that had been missing from previous performances. I’m guessing wardrobe were forward planning, pre-empting Stacey’s performance to be anything but.

Olly was back on top form, looking sharp and polished. Welcome back, Olly. It seems you were the only one who genuinely made an effort this evening.

Looking more relaxed in his own shoes, Lloyd was the personification of a teen heartthrob. Open checked shirt, jeans and a white vest suitably positioned him amongst his peers.

Jamie also looked more comfortable this week. The scarf had disappeared from the pocket, although unfortunately, I’m sure that’s not the last we’ve seen of it.

What has happened to Lucie’s wardrobe? Glitter vest, ripped jeans, naff ankle boots? What a contrast from the outfit she wore for the red carpet premier. Why couldn’t they have saved the floaty dress and leather jacket combo for Saturday night? It would have been much more appropriate.

The hot topic this week was Danyl’s new do. I have to confess, I’m not a fan. It wasn’t broken, so why the need to fix it? I guess he had to do something to liven up his vanilla wardrobe. It speaks volumes when you don’t notice what someone is wearing until the end of their act.

Joe again, fell into an abyss of uninspired tailoring. Someone, please do something with him!

In the naughty corner this week:

Besides Simon for failing to save Lucie (boo, hiss!), it’s Danyl’s new haircut.

Sunday Best:

The wardrobe choices for the opening act…finally!

Nov 02

 

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It’s Halloween, it’s rock night. Will our favourite judges in the land dress accordingly? Cheryl, Cheryl, Cheryl…. Why? We’re all for showcasing new talent, so thumbs up for going beyond the safety net of Atelier Versace this week with that dress… but with those boots? Really?

 

Dannii stepped it up a controversial notch by partaking in the homeless chic trend noted in the Daily Mail last week. A glamorous ensemble of sequins, beading, lace and threadbare.

 

Louis, Simon… blah.

 

Joe kicked off the entertainment in an outfit that was severely lacking in style nutrition. Come on, stylists, it’s week four and rock week to boot! We wanted skulls, chains, a hint at the underworld! We got jeans, a black and white t-shirt and a biker jacket. Louis Walsh pushes more style boundaries than this.

 

Lucie’s garb took us back to the 90’s when grunge and angst were mandatory. Her checked, sleeveless shirt was as relevant today as it was back then, but maybe a nod towards 80’s rock would have been more appropriate, given her song choice of ‘Sweet Child O’ Mine’. Yet again, the ship of potential sailed away. 

 

Lloyd, it seems the wardrobe people have called a truce… their new target is Olly. It was noted last week that we may have a little style gem in Olly. Clearly spoke too soon. Beyond bland this week with the denim shirt and trouser combo.

 

Stacey looked good. Contemporary, fitting and good.

 

Jamie. Oh, Jamie. This should have been your night. Rock is your thing. The mother ship was calling you home this week. The leather blazer: no. The faded jeans: well, a good start, but no. The silver guitar painted on the back of said blazer: heck, no. Where were the fingerless leather gloves? And guy-liner… I expected to see guy-liner! (on John and Edward doesn’t count)… No skulls or kohl, but the scarf in the back pocket, they keep. I weep for what could have been.

 

In the naughty corner this week…

Besides Jamie’s scarf, it is again, the opening showcase of the finalists on Sunday. Were the costumes stolen from the set of High School Musical? Oh, and Rachel, that belt didn’t go with that dress.

 

Sunday Best:

It has to be Dannii’s skull drop-earrings. Suitably ghoulish for last night’s theme, even if it was a day late.  

Oct 27

 

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There is no escaping it. Everywhere we look, celebrities are branching out to create and endorse new lines and products, adding titles such as designer, perfumer and even author to their ever-expanding resumes. Many have no qualms, and some no shame, in seducing a susceptible public. 

 

Designer Sir Paul Smith has no time for celebrity-endorsed collections. In an interview  in the Telegraph, Sir Paul draws attention to the increasing trend of celebrity high-street collaborations.

 

“O they (celebrities) have neither the training nor the design awareness necessary in the business, which means it must be purely about ego and money. I wouldn’t bring in a celebrity to work at Paul Smith in a million years. Actually, make that a trillion.”

 

Strong words, but it is hard to argue against the sentiment. So, what is the magnetism behind these celebrity products and ranges? Is it the design or is it the endorsement? I sense a chicken and egg debate coming on.

 

Undoubtedly, endorsed lines generate sales and that is what our world economy needs right now, but what about the young, undiscovered raw talent out there ñ and it is out there – bending over backwards to repay the loans and fees that financed genuine design degrees in the first place? 

 

Getting your name in a tabloid headline rather on a degree certificate would appear to be the quickest way onto the fashion ladder nowadays.

 

Take Lindsay Lohan;  though a name synonymous with many things, fashion is not one of them. Yet, the powers that be at the house of Emanuel Ungaro sought the artistic guidance of a 23-year-old actress with no fashion experience. Why? According to reports, Lindsay’s involvement was to infuse the struggling label with a more youthful sensibility. Needless to say, the collection was not well received by the fashion elite, echoing the sentiments of Sir Paul.

 

Celebrity ranges have yet to run their course. Who knows if they ever will. Maybe this is just the beginning.

Oct 26

 

 

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Big Band night brought a welcomed sigh of relief this week, as previous weeks had set the precedence for Big Bland night.

 

Judges Simon and Louis kept it simple and inoffensive yet again – yawn. Somehow, Louis always manages fit the quota of uncle at a wedding in the style stakes.

 

The female judges both glammed it up with floor-length numbers; Dannii in a stunning beaded 30’s inspired gown and Cheryl in an Atelier Versace (again! – are they sponsoring her?) white Grecian dress, accessorised with diamante headband. To sum up in clichéd judge terms, they made it their own.

 

Olly opened the show looking cute in black braces and bow tie. We could have a little gem here, so watch this space.

 

Lloyd was up next, dressed like he’d been waiting tables. As with Miss Frank, it appears that the wardrobe people had turned on him, too. He’s young; he’s cool (are kids still saying cool?). It could have been more edgy.

 

The good news for Miss Frank this week was that they all matched; they were all as bad as each other. The masculine pinstriped tailoring should have been a lot sharper. Even Beetlejuice wore better pinstripes. 

 

Decorated in a plethora of sequins and beading, Rachel stole the show in a multi-coloured shift dress. Whatever was in that stitching completely possessed her. With any luck, that’ll be the end of bargain-bin Rihanna.

 

Stacey brought an air of old Hollywood, beautifully dressed in a rhinestone gown, giving Jessica Rabbit a run for her money in the curves department.

 

The same should have been true for Lucie, but her floor length red dress was missing something. A flower behind the ear, a corsage on the shoulder, even a red lip would have projected her outfit to the next level. She ended up looking washed out.

 

In the naughty corner this week…

It has to Cheryl’s choice of outfit for Sunday’s results show combined with the tambourine madness that was the opening act.

 

Sunday Best:

Erm…. The lighting was nice… Oh, and the scarf was missing from Jamie’s pocket this week, hooray!

Oct 13

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Well, it’s that time of year again. Saturday and Sunday slots on the sofa are well and truly booked up until Christmas, which funnily enough seemed to come early this year for one particular judge. Dressed in a puffball of gold and missing a Christmas tree, was our very own angel of the north, Cheryl Cole in an outfit that literally took her hostage and refused to come quietly. A smothering disappointment to such a highly anticipated arrival. Shame on you, Cheryl, you’re better than this.

 

Unfortunately, the faux pas kept on coming. Our eyes were filled with disillusionment in the shape of ill-fitting jeans (Stacey), comedy suits for (Rikki) and Beastie Boy jewellery circa 1989 (Miss Frank). Now, we’re all well aware it’s not a fashion competition, but just because our ears have to suffer from time to time (‘cough’ Liquorice Allsorts, John and Edward) it doesn’t mean our eyes should have to also. And with stardom becoming more and more about the look and style of celebrity, then why not start early.  

 

According to the shows stylist, Faye Sawyer, fashion wouldn’t be as engaging if it were perfect every time. Erm, Faye Sawyer, Patricia Field! She was the award-winning stylist on Sex and the City. I think Pat and her awards may disagree with you there.

 

So, what should stylist and fashionistas learn from week one? Look into fashion in more detail, taking more care and time when constructing that show stopping outfit. Don’t just fabricate a Rihanna wannabe and with the beret wearing, burgundy-suited, hoodie-under a teacher’s-blazer, cheap Justin Timberlake ensembles, bin them, please. 

 

Credit where credit is due.

Although the majority of this weeks outfits were not worthy of being bargain basement stature, two pieces had potential. These were Jamie’s statement military jacket and the black bowler hat worn by Miss Frank’s Shar. However, Jamie, take note: the scarf hanging out of the back pocket on your jeans wants returning to the 90’s. Thanks.

Oct 12

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October is breast cancer awareness month and with many fashion and beauty houses lining up to do their bit for charadee, it begs the question, is it enough?

 

Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, the international brainchild established in 1990 by Ralph Lauren, sailed across to our shores in 1996. Since then, the UK division of the organisation has raised just over £9 million (just £6 million more than the cheque Kate Moss received to ëdesigní for Topshop) to help fund research, campaigning and educational work for the charity Breakthrough Breast Cancer. Thatís just over £600,000 per year since it began 13 years ago. Somewhere in the world, Linda Evangelista is shuddering at the thought whilst contemplating getting out of bed.

 

It is estimated that the fashion industry in the UK alone generates around £50 billion per year, so why, oh why does so little of it filter through to such a worthy, essential cause?

 

High street giants River Island, Warehouse and Topshop, to name just a few all support Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, with each brand creating a limited edition design for their stores to help create awareness of the disease and raise much needed funding. However, just 30% from each sale makes it back to Breakthrough Breast Cancer. A mere drop in a very lucrative ocean for the majority of retailers.

 

Since creating her collection for Topshop, Kate Moss has allegedly managed to increase profits overall by an incredible 5% for the chain. Lets face facts; the girl could flog a used copy of Playboy to Hugh Hefner for profit. She has the Midas touch. Would it then be out of the question to ask Ms. Moss to use her powers for good and create one or two charity must-haves for the masses? Penny for a thought.

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