Last week The Fashion Network were invited to an exclusive brunch at Harvey Nichols, with women's footwear designer Nicholas Kirkwood. The event marked the date of an exclusive collection, only available in Harvey Nichols stores.

Nicholas Kirkwood, who is known for his craftsmanship and innovative designs was proud to present this exclusive collection to a small number of press at the Manchester Harvey Nichols store. For all that haven't heard of Nicholas Kirkwood, you are sure to have seen some of his designs before. Some verging on the edge of avant-garde, his creations have graced some of the biggest stars in fashion and Hollywood, Sarah Jessica Parker wore a pair from his new collection all the way through the Sex And The City promotions. The use of shapes, fits and colours are instantly recognisable and the man himself was kind enough to talk to us about the collection, influences, ideas and what's next for the brand;

The Fashion Network - Could you give us a brief background on how you got into womens footwear. Have you always designed shoes?

Nicholas Kirkwood - I started off at college studying Fine Art, I didn't know what I wanted to be when I was older but I knew it would be something design based, as this was the only thing I was good at. When I was younger a started off working for hat designer, Philip Treacy (about 10 years ago). I would observe the clients that would come in closely. It was my job to style the accessories. When someone came in with a whole outfit planned I would always notice that the shoes would always let it down, they would choose an average 50s style. I thought to myself, there is no-one out there doing what I could do, I wanted to work with the negative space, for example the space between the heel.

TFN What is your inspiration source?

NK - Not one set thing, movies, architecture or it could even be a feeling. When I'm designing it's usually proportions, angles, fabrics, mixes of colour. It can come from anywhere really, for instance being in a certain place or situation or just the season. This season I looked closely at the Victorian period, so lace, ankle boots, structures and high enclosures. Attention to detail!

TFN - What makes your designs unique?

NK - The upper patterns, the new shapes I'm trying to design and again, the use of negative space. I try to invent new shoes instead of referencing the past.

TFN - Has a celebrity that has been seen wearing your shoes ever influenced a sale?

NK -The thing is with this is, I try and get my shoes on the right people, I would much prefer people in the fashion industry to be wearing my shoes that another celebrity. The right people in London is key, but still the more people seen in them, ultimately equals more sales.

TFN - When designing a collection, who do you have in mind? Customer wise.

NK - I don't have an actual person in mind, it's more an imaginary person. Various customers all mixed together, in different parts of the world. We sell in 35 countries around the world now so I picture one of them from a selected county and design for them. Every market place is totally different, the Russians and Ukraines are starting to get really interested in my designs, they want a different approach from the west but still know what time like. We are looking to opening more stores in those areas.

I also imagine customers in Dover Street Market in London, where I have my own space, their customers are really great to design for.

TFN - What's the toughest part of the making process?

NK - Without a doubt, the manufacturing side. It has been really hard to find the right factory, I have had a few and the amount of times they have been late with deadlines is untrue. I have found a good balance with out now, this was the factory I used to launch my first proper collection.

TFN - What can we expect from you in the future?

NK - New silhouettes, creating different and innovative shapes across the foot, less close at the top like the last. The collections are usually around 100 pieces each, starting at around £500. I want to design a smaller menswear range too, that would be more about attention to design than extravagant design. Also handbags, sunglasses, jewellery, and even some short films.

TFN - What advice do you have for any young designers?

NK - Try to get a team together, you can't do it all alone. You need to find a team you can trust and work with for 24 hours a day. You need the people to be able to bounce ideas off, change things, suggest different ways. You need to be 100% tight with these people, as they will be your business partners and ultimately, your friends. Also, find the right factory for you!

Nicholas Kirkwood's full collection is exclusively available at the Harvey Nichols store in Knightsbridge, with the possibly to branch out to other stores in the future. Enquiries can be made though any of their store.

Thanks to Nicholas Kirkwood and Harvey Nichols, Manchester for letting us be a part of the presentation.

Find out more about Nicholas Kirkwood here

Words by Matthew Pike. Images courtesy of Harvey Nichols.

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