Fashion News
Playboys at the Milan Menswear Spring '09 shows
Amy On Men In Milan
Trends
The playboy was certainly the inspiration for many of the designers for Spring ’09. As the majority of people are suffering from the credit crunch, the truly wealthy will be having a ball next Spring. The catwalks portrayed luxurious style and complete lavishness, with shiny tailored fabrics creating a cosy lounging mood. Soft fabrics, pyjama style jackets and deconstructed suits (typical of the playboy himself Hugh Hefner) paraded the Milan catwalk.
Dolce and Gabanna replicated the playboy theme with silky suits and pyjama trousers creating a luxe lounging trend. D&G appealed to the young and rich playboy with shiny, satin shirts, techy pants and shimmering suits in deep blues, grey and black with white, pewter and silver touches. Inspiration for Armani came from India, mixing both Eastern and Western trends to create an innovative look from techy shirts to shiny tailoring.
Moschino and D&G unveiled the ‘nerdy’ look for Spring. D&G played on this with bow ties, worn with single button blazers, in white, navy, red and grey colour palettes.
Although the playboy trend is far from romantic, Antonio Maras, Roberto Cavalli and Gucci focused on poet shirts and floral embellishments producing an amorous twist.
Fabrics
Soft, textured material such as cotton was a key fabric in Milan, whether it was crinkle cotton, treated cotton or heavy cotton it was seen on the likes of Vivienne Westwood, Jill Sander and Burberry Prorsum who used this fabric for shirts, trousers and jackets.
Shine dominated Milan, John Richmond, D&G, and Gucci all unveiled their shiny tailoring. Shimmering jackets, suits, tops, knits, and shirts were paraded magically down the runway.
Compared to this year’s collection, Spring ’09 will certainly be much more impressive, with innovative new fabrics and trends.
Colour
Shades of blue were all the rage, seen in the majority of designer collections. Jill Sander and Bottega Veneta used bright shades of blue as well as a Riviera palette of navy and white, with soft, unstructured tailoring typical of the rich traveller.
Unlike the shock of Grey in the womenswear collection last year this colour was very popular in Milan. Mixed with bursts of colour and silver touches, labels such as Antonio Marras, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, D&G, Jill Sander and Burberry Prorsum intertwined the colours to create stunning outfits. Colour has returned!
Prada stayed serious with tan, brown, black and olive tones where as Gucci went loud and proud on their casual wear but stayed monochrome on tailoring.
Trend Round Up
• Large Men’s Handbags – Bottega Veneta, Etro, Burberry Prorsum
• White Suits – Calvin Klein Collection, Gucci, Dolce & Gabanna, Bottega Veneta
• Shades of Blue – Dolce & Gabanna, Versace, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Jill Sander
• Tailoring – Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani
• Blazers – Giorgio Armani, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabanna
• Unstructured – Dolce & Gabanna, Giorgio Armani, Bottega Veneta
• Neon Splashes – Calvin Klein Collection, Alexander McQueen, Costume National
• Light Layers – Bottega Veneta, Burberry Prorsum, DSquared
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